We sat down with Fortunato Mazzone, one of South Africa’s most influential restaurateurs, to talk about how his restaurants have become benchmarks for what it means to dine with Italian style, flavour, and authenticity.
Fortunato Mazzone isn’t just serving Italian food in Pretoria, South Africa; he’s transformed it. He’s taken dining from cosy neighbourhood trattorias to sleek, contemporary sophistication, and he’s done it three times over with Forti, Forti TOO, and the Vee and Forti.
What sets Fortunato apart is that he doesn’t cook for the plate; he cooks for his customers, crafting every dish with respect for traditional recipes. In doing so, he’s proving that Italian heritage and modern dining can coexist beautifully, and with a touch of South African swagger.
Fortunato Mazzone’s fortitude in Italian Cuisine
What was the ‘aha’ moment when Fortunato Mazzone decided to become a chef?
There was no “moment”. Our family business was the restaurant business; I am the fifth generation in the chef game. I was teaching full-time and running the family business after hours, but after getting married, I realised I needed to support my young family. So I left teaching and joined the family business full-time.
We had the busiest restaurant in SA at the time. I was in charge of a kitchen feeding up to 1800 people a day with 80 staff in the kitchen alone. It was a mammoth undertaking for a 25-year-old. Having done that, running multiple restaurants as I do today is a breeze!!
How has Fortunato Mazzone’s culinary style evolved over the years?
I have had the privilege to work with several major international chefs in my life, and I learned much from them. I used to do many of the international food shows and a lot of television work.
As I matured, I realised that what people want is good classic “real” food, so I moved away from the gels and the “smoke and mirrors” and focused on what I do best: regional Southern Italian (specifically the food of Irpinia in Campania).
In a sense, I went back to my roots. It is not about ego. It is about making people happy and providing an authentic dining experience. This means superb-quality ingredients prepared in traditional ways, and most importantly, seasonality.
My specials list changes almost every day, and most of my clients don’t even look at the menu but ask me for our daily speciality. That way, we always keep it fresh. I travel to Italy twice a year for inspiration and trends, and often bring those back to my clients in my own fashion.
How does Fortunato Mazzone balance creativity and run a profitable kitchen?
I charge a fair price for the quality of produce I use. I do not exploit my clients for short-term gain. And that is why my restaurants have such longevity. We offer top-quality produce at a price that the man in the street can afford. If that means that my margins are squeezed, then so be it.
The days of running a quality kitchen on a 30% food cost are long over – especially in Pretoria. Maybe Cape Town and Johannesburg restaurants can get away with it because of the high proportion of tourists and “tenderpreneur” trade, but Pretoria is a different market.
I have been feeding families across multiple generations, and if we had to charge the price we should be charging, we would close down. We currently work on a 3% net profit, which by international standards is minuscule. But I am happy, and I keep 100 people gainfully employed (at salaries well above the exploitative industry norm).
And I look forward to coming to work every day.
Mentorship and industry influence in Italian cuisine
Who mentored you to become a chef, and how do you pay that mentorship forward?
My father, without a doubt. He was one of the great chefs of this country – part of a group of great European chefs who came in to run the top 5-star restaurants and hotel kitchens in Johannesburg and to transfer skills to the local chefs. I am ever grateful for his guidance and influence.
Through him, I received a proper classical training and respect for my colleagues and fellow chefs. It is the toughest job, with long, draining hours and, for most, not very financially rewarding.
What’s the best leadership advice you’ve ever received, and how does it shape your leadership?
Treat all your staff with respect and kindness. And expect the same in return. Sometimes you will be disappointed, but it must not change who you are. My staff have an average of over 20 years of service with me, and some have been with me for over 30 years.
The absence of massive staff turnover (which is the norm in our industry) fosters and ensures a great team spirit and great continuity in my kitchen. New staff are trained in our classic ways. The kitchen has to be run like a massive military exercise. Preparation is everything.
My father taught me two key things: Successful kitchens are 80% preparation and 20% perspiration, and don’t sweat the small stuff, because if all your staff did the job as well as you, then they would be the boss.
You have to be big enough to overlook some small failings, as we are all humans, and our job is tough.
What’s the biggest business lesson the kitchen has taught you?
There is no substitute for hard work, and NEVER EVER short-change your client. Regulars know your standard, and if you drop it, they will immediately notice. And your regular is your bread and butter. Always respect your customer.
Innovation beyond tradition in Italian cuisine
What’s your non-negotiable when it comes to sourcing and sustainability?
I only use the best-quality ingredients I can source and NEVER a cheaper substitute, whether local or imported.
Eating out today is a great sacrifice for most people in the current economic situation, and by giving them the best you can, you show respect for your client and you maintain your own integrity. Don’t save a few pennies in a dish you are selling for a large sum of money.
My meat is grass-fed. My flour is imported 00 flour from one producer in Italy. The tomatoes I use in my food come from San Marsano near my home in Italy. My olive oil, which I use for everything, is from excellent SA producers and is very expensive. I don’t use cheap Pomace oil like most of the industry.
Has South Africa found its culinary identity yet? What must we do to strengthen our cuisine globally?
We need to focus on legacy local ingredients, and there is so much culinary talent amongst the new generation of SA chefs who are taking those heritage ingredients and creating new and fascinating combinations.
We need to move away from Bobotie (essentially an Indonesian dish) and toward ingredients like goat meat, indigenous chicken, African pumpkin, samp, indigenous beans and venison. And nose-to-tail eating, which is very traditional for most of our young chefs.
These are on trend internationally and can be easily locally adapted.
What have you personally contributed to South African cuisine or food culture — and what impact do you hope it makes?
I strongly support a project called Harvesting Heritage to promote our fantastic local indigenous ingredients. I also take many students under my belt in my restaurants to ensure the transfer of classical skills. I fight for better working conditions and pay for local chefs through the SA Chefs Association.
I am also a proud member of the Chefs Academy, the honour society of SACA established by the late Billy Gallagher. We are a group of senior chefs nominated by our peers to be a voice for the industry and mentors to the younger generation.
I also try to teach our younger chefs the importance of classical chef training and the importance of respect for their peers and personal integrity.
What has cooking for people taught you about life, and your own purpose as a chef?
I love what I do. I believe you can taste the happiness and passion in my (our) food. A happy kitchen makes food that carries a positive energy and the collective pride of the chefs.
I have always tried to do my job with a high level of integrity and honesty, and this serves you well in life in general. Your name is all you have; never do anything to stain that reputation. Not with your staff, your partners, your suppliers and most importantly, your clients.
