Lesser-known Mexican city with 40p tacos and kaleidoscope streets that comes alive for Day Of The Dead

GHOSTLY figures dressed all in white walked quietly past me on a dark street – hundreds of them, each with a single flame illuminating a skull-painted face. It felt spooky, even sombre, but then came the crackle of a sound system, the pop of a tequila bottle opening — and raucous laughter. Say hola to…